Chiang Mai, all you need to know

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is the hub of Northern Thailand, serving as the region’s cultural, spiritual and economic centre. Founded as the capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom in 1296, Chiang Mai’s roots are embedded in the northern Thai heritage of Lanna culture.

The city walls you see today mark a square mile around the city centre and were first built in line with ancient spiritual beliefs that aligned with auspicious military techniques. The strong sense of spiritualism can still be felt today, with hundreds of temples dotted around the city, and a visible presence of Buddhist monks who are essential to the life of Chiang Mai.

The influence of Buddhism’s mindful practice surely contributes to the laid-back feeling of the city, and now the younger generations are taking this and creating a new world with vintage stores, hip cafe culture, and a focus on environmentalism.

In every sense of the word, Chiang Mai is cool. From the pace and people to the temperate climate, this region has so much to explore and feels worlds away from bustling Bangkok or the heavily touristed coastal areas of Thailand. To reach Chiang Mai, you can choose an hour-long flight or day-long road trip from Bangkok depending on your travel time frame. Once you are in the city, I would recommend hiring a car or scooter for more flexibility and ease of access to the mountainous activities that should not be missed.

Doi Inthanon

Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain peak in Thailand, about 90 minutes south-west of Chiang Mai city centre in an expansive national park. Part of the Himalayan ranges, the mountain has earned its nickname as the “Roof of Thailand” by sitting at 2565m above sea level.

Doi Inthanon has something for everyone, attracting Buddhist pilgrims, nature lovers, adventure seekers, and anyone chasing a cool reprieve from the humid south. The drive into the national park is an experience in itself. As you wind up the mountain you’ll pass waterfall lookouts, markets, and coffee farms that are perfect stops to break up the journey. At the summit, there is a lookout and short nature trail that is worth wandering through, even if only to get your “highest point” photo opportunity.

You will also see a temperature display with a single digit that reminds you why you shouldn’t have left your jumper in the car. Turns out it gets chilly walking through the clouds! Once you have seen the summit, double back on yourself down the hill, and the best of Doi Inthanon is revealed.

Kew Mae Pan Trail We hiked the Kew Mae Pan Trail through the forested mountainside of Doi Inthanon, and it was one of our favourite experiences in Chiang Mai because of the scenery and our incredible guide. The local hill tribes nurture the area, with different tribes allocated to the different hiking trails.

The Hmong hill tribe look over the Kew Mae Pan Trailm and to walk it you must pay a small fee that covers their role as your guide as well as the maintenance of the national park. The guides range from young adults to elderly people, and they seemed to be paired with hiking groups based on ability. Most do not speak English, but it does not affect how they pass on their knowledge of the region.

Our guide Mei did a brilliant job of balancing the serenity of the hike with engaging our curiosity of the area’s native flora and fauna. As we walked through clouds on a cliff face, Mei picked wild blueberries for us, snap-frozen from the sub-zero nighttime temperatures of the mountain. She found more berries, from a tree we had never seen before, and gestured for us to eat. They were so sour we couldn’t unscrew our faces and we joked about whether she had just poisoned us. A nearby guide translated this for Mei, and she cackled to herself as she continued into the valley beyond us.

Towards the end of the hike I spotted a beetle on the trail, shimmering iridescent in the filtered light and, oddly enough, shrieking. Mei picked it up like a screaming beetle was her average Wednesday, and told us to take photos of it. It was only when we returned to the trailhead and she pointed it out on a display of the hike’s endemic species that we realised how truly special our beetle sighting had been.

While the information at the trailhead says to allow 2½ to three hours, we did the hike in 90 minutes, so time frame is dependent on ability. Something to keep in mind when planning your trip is that Doi Inthanon is considered sacred, thus the forest is heavily protected and parts of the mountain, including the hiking trails, are closed annually from June to November for environmental recovery.

Twin Chedis Across the road from the Kew Mae Pan trailhead is another carpark that doubles as the transport point to the Twin Chedis, where trucks will take you to the base of the Royal Pagoda precinct. These pagodas were built in 1987 and 1992 to honour the 60th birthdays of King Rama IX and Queen Sirikit respectively.

Sitting at the highest point of Thailand, framed by manicured gardens and glittering against the sky, the Chedis symbolise the royal family’s protection and their role as the upholders of spiritualism in Thai culture. Stories of Buddha’s birth, life, and enlightenment are told inside the pagodas and the quiet, thoughtful atmosphere brings many visitors peace.

Eat Your Way Around

It is difficult to summarise the Chiang Mai food experience. Every meal is better than the last, and there was nothing we did not enjoy. A melting pot of flavours exists within the region thanks to the proximity of neighbours Myanmar and Laos, the rich Northern Thai Lanna heritage, established Chinese-Muslim influences, and a recent rise in expatriation to the city. This also means there is something for everyone in every price range. To share some of my highlights, here are the top contenders of the most common food categories in Chiang Mai...

Best authentic Northern Thai Baan Landai. This is a small, homely restaurant run by a lovely couple. We ate here on our first night to introduce ourselves to Lanna cuisine, and nothing beat it! Jordan claims they have the best khao soi in Chiang Mai, and I highly recommend the pork ribs.

Best market Memories of Chiang Mai. This night market just outside the gates of the city is not widely advertised, but very popular among young locals. It is the true representation of Chiang Mai’s multiculturalism, starting as a Burmese market but expanding into something greater with Cantonese, Indian, Korean, Japanese, Thai and Chinese food stalls now permanent fixtures. Do yourself a favour and visit the stall offering whole Hong Kong-style fish. It is fresh, succulent, and might attract the friendly market cat to the foot of your table.

Best international Sanjan Indonesian Cafe. This restaurant does not look like much from the outside, but it is what happens in the kitchen that counts. The beef rendang and satay were some of the best I have had, and the dumpling soup was Jordan’s curveball favourite.

Best rooftop Barglory Rooftop Bar. As is the rule anywhere in the world, you pay for the view. Barglory is no exception, but it does break the stereotype of rooftop bars getting away with serving bad food. In fact, this is the kind of meal you think about months later and mourn your inability to revisit it. The venue has an unobstructed view of the sun setting over the mountains. Make an early reservation so you can enjoy the sunset with a drink before dinner. We ordered way too much food thinking they would be small servings but had no regrets because everything was perfect. The whole river prawns, pork served with jaew dip and tom yum were the culinary highlights of our entire trip to Thailand.

Best mango sticky rice Khrua Montip Thai Food. This unsuspecting roadside restaurant serves Thai cafe-style food during the day, and desserts at night. All elements of the dish were fresh and homemade, and we loved that the coconut cream sauce was tangier than some of the overly sweetened sticky rice you’ll find in Thailand.

Climb the Sticky Waterfalls

Take a scenic drive one hour north of Chiang Mai to climb the famous Sticky Waterfalls in Buatong National Park. Once you’re off the main highway that connects you to the mountain roads, the drive through valleys, farms and villages is a great way to see a different side of the area, and we were struck by how much it felt like Perth’s Swan Valley. Once inside the national park, there is plenty of parking, well-kept facilities, and a food market.

You start your adventure by descending the side of the waterfalls via wooden stairs, and when you reach the bottom there is a pool to wade through to reach the first rock formation. I was dubious of the supposed “stickiness” of these rocks, but that is truly the only way to describe the sensation.

The limestone formation known as “tufa” has been created by spring water continuously depositing calcium carbonate over the rocks, creating a layer of grip that allows people to walk barefoot up the falls. The climb has gorgeous views and shallow pools to rest in along the way, as well as a few hidden paths that we used to avoid crowds.

Experience coffee culture

If you’re a coffee lover then the Chiang Mai cafe scene will excite you. There are numerous elements that contribute to the quantity and quality of Chiang Mai’s speciality coffee.

First, the high altitude and cool climate of the surrounding mountainous terrain proves to be the perfect environment for growing world-class beans that have unique, lively flavours.

Secondly, the Thai Government has placed hefty tariffs on international coffee imports, encouraging demand for local production.

The results of these efforts? Farm-to-table fresh coffee, born from time-honoured agricultural techniques, combined with the modern influences of Australian, Japanese and South Korean cafe culture.

Our favourite part of buying a coffee in Chiang Mai is being able to pick the specific beans or depth of roast with every drink. It means getting to sample a wide variety of the region’s best coffees, especially since the independent cafes tend to be directly connected to their own suppliers.

When you search for reviews of coffee shops in Chiang Mai, you might be intimidated by choice given the sheer quantity of cafes that have five-star ratings, but consider it a good thing! It is the sort of city centre where you can stumble into any cafe and have a great experience.

That being said, our favourite independent cafes were Seven Slash Two and Graph Coffee Co. However, our favourite coffee for flavour, but also price, was from Minimal Coffee which is a Chiang Mai chain coffee shop that you will often see on roadsides. The Chotana branch is the perfect stop on the way to the Sticky Waterfalls and has a spacious garden away from the roadside. Its espresso orange with a dark roast is a must-try that has been inspiring our home coffee endeavours since returning.

Go whitewater rafting

If you like an adventure with a few unexpected quests, then look no further than a whitewater rafting experience along the Mae Tang River. We started our day being picked up from our accommodation and driven to the north of Chiang Mai province, to Khampan Rafting’s home base.

At the start of our rafting course we stood on the riverbank and watched as an elephant clambered down the hillside in front of us and began crossing the river in curiosity.

Then we embarked on our rafting adventure — powering towards rapids, sailing over ledges, then meandering downstream in quiet sections. At the end we were picked up and taken back to the base where we were fed fresh fruits and pad thai while watching the river flow past. Then we continued our afternoon by being led to a hidden waterfall that took a motorbike ride and a short hike to reach.

On the hike we spotted jackfruit and banana trees that our guide climbed to retrieve fresh fruit for us to try. When we reached the waterfall, he showed us how erosion of the rock face has caused a natural waterslide, and encouraged us to try it.

The speed of the water keeps you from scraping against the rock, and the pool underneath was too deep for me to touch the bottom, so the safety rating is high by jungle standards. It was another mild day in the Chiang Mai mountains, so our guide lit a fire to warm us up after our swim and we enjoyed the sounds of the waterfall and crackling kindling until it was time to leave.

Visit Baan Kang Wat

Baan Kang Wat is an artists’ village 15 minutes away from Chiang Mai city centre. It is exactly what it sounds like — a village laid out as a gigantic market, full of artists and craftspeople creating and selling their work while fostering a community of small businesses and creativity. It is not your typical South-East Asian market with cheap souvenirs and replica pieces at every stall. Instead you can find one-of-a-kind art and support local creatives.

There are also workshops offered by some businesses, including glasswork, pottery, woodwork, journal decorating and painting activities. We wandered for hours and came home with multiple keepsakes including ceramics, stoneware and prints. My must-do activity was personalising a leather-bound journal at Note A Book, where you get to emboss the covers, stamp the pages, and add trinkets and charms, all included in the cost of buying the journal.

A warning if you are taking a taxi or rideshare to Baan Kang Wat; it looked difficult to get picked up since it is further out of the city. We drove, and found it very convenient as there is an overflow parking area permanently set up.

Make a wish at Wat Lok Moli

The temples of Chiang Mai are one of its drawcards, the city having a shrine dedicated to what seems like every symbolic animal and deity of Buddhism. The endless beauty of these culturally significant sites can become lost after repeated visits, so actually getting to experience the spirit behind the temple activities is a great way to fully immerse yourself in the culture.

Wat Lok Moli was close to where we stayed, and we wandered into the brightly lit grounds one evening after dinner. I was drawn to the back of the complex where a sea of colourful lanterns were strung together, creating a floating canopy above us. It was only then that I noticed a samanera, or junior monk, with a table of lanterns for visitors who could buy one to mark their time in Chiang Mai through a small donation to the temple.

The samanera asked for the day of the week I was born and found the lucky last blue lantern that correlates to a Friday birthday. It felt like the stars aligning based on my coincidental monochromatic outfit that night. I was told to write my name, age, the date, and my wish, then hang it among the canopy of colours.

It made me emotional to see everyone’s wishes in one place, across cultures and languages and time. Individual dreams, strung together to create something beautiful. I hope to return to find my lantern again one day, but if you get there first, send me a photo.

EDITOR’S NOTE

November to March is peak fire season, as farmers burn off fields before new crops are sown. In addition to this, wildfires break out naturally because of dry conditions in forests and farmlands. Air quality can suffer greatly, which we’d like those with respiratory conditions or sensitivities to know.

The background AQI levels can exceed 150. It is possible to have days at AQI 200 or even 300.

The Air Quality Index (AQI) is a scale (0–500) that translates complex pollutant concentrations into a measure of air cleanliness. AQI measures up to six key pollutants.

0–50 Air quality is satisfactory, with little or no risk.

51–100 Air is acceptable, though people sensitive to poor air quality should be cautious.

101–150 Sensitive groups may experience effects.

151–200 Everyone may begin to be affected.

201+ Unhealthy to hazardous. Health warnings are likely.

Stephen Scourfield