Moray’s (slightly surprising) big five

Well known in parts, unsung in others, Moray is one of the 32 council areas that make up Scotland. It’s in the eastern Highlands, stretching between the Moray Firth, a dolphin-dotted inlet of the North Sea, and the craggy (sometimes snow-dusted) peaks of the Cairngorms, Britain’s largest national park.

The closest cities to Moray are Inverness and Aberdeen. Both are within an hour’s drive of the county’s borders, but when you’re here, relishing the rural wonders, wilderness and whisky, you’ll feel like you’re much further from urban life. Here are five highlights.

DIVERTING DISTILLERIES

The most visited chunk of Moray is Speyside, a region that is set around the River Spey and boasts 51 working whisky distilleries (making up more than a third of Scotland’s total number). You’ll find beloved brands here such as Glenfiddich, The Balvenie and The Glenlivet — all of which have charming settings, antique and sleek buildings, and immersive tours and tastings.

Distilleries fill you in on their often-fascinating histories and production processes before sharing samples of their smooth (and non-smoky) whiskies, many of which have been matured in oak barrels for between 12 and 18 years. While most Speyside distilleries specialise in aged single malts, several also offer blended whiskies.

Excelling in both is the Cardhu Distillery, which was founded in 1824, initially starting the previous decade as an illicit smuggling operation before flourishing (legally) under the leadership of two inspiring women, Helen and Elizabeth Cumming. The distillery later partnered with John Walker & Sons — the company behind Johnnie Walker, a brand synonymous with award-winning blended Scotch. Now owned by multinational drinks giant Diageo, Cardhu is among the participating distilleries in the annual Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival (April 29-May 4, 2026).

See spiritofspeyside.com

COUNTRY HOTELS

Tipples from Speyside sit beside bottles from other Scottish whisky-making hotspots in the cosy bars sprinkling the region. Some are tucked inside country retreats like The Dowans Hotel, which is set in a converted Victorian mansion and boasts more than 750 different whiskies — including a few rare ones to excite the connoisseur.

The chefs here also add whisky to some of their sauces, complementing the meat, fish and vegetable dishes made with seasonal, locally sourced produce. Expect everything from Speyside venison to Moray Firth scallops.

This hotel overlooks the whisky-making village of Aberlour, which is also home to the world-famous Walker’s Shortbread Factory, whose buttery products grace many a Scottish gift stop and supermarket shelf. A 10-minute drive from the Dowans is its sister hotel, 1881. Named after the year the building was constructed, it has had a funky 21st-century makeover in its bar-restaurant and 11 guest rooms, some with views of Ben Rinnes, an 841m peak that’s the highest point of Moray and part of the Grampian Mountains.

The hotel is in the sleepy village of Archiestown, which was settled in the 1700s by Sir Archibald Grant to house weavers working with flax to make linen. Many residents left the following century, with some heading to Canada to build the railways there, and others — including Findlays, Grants, Cossacks and McConachies — seeking their fortunes Down Under in the Australian gold rush.

See dowanshotel.com and hotel1881archiestown.com

FARM FLAVOURS

While salmon from the Spey stars on many breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, beef, pork, lamb and chicken reared in Moray are also staples at the region’s restaurants. Enticing eateries pepper the towns of Elgin, Forres and Dufftown, but you can also try the produce at its source, with a cluster of working farms offering accommodation, activities, and a chance to meet, feed (and eat) the animals.

Run by the Lake family, Thorabella Farm spreads for 16ha on the outskirts of Dallas, which is a striking contrast to the Texan city that shares its name, surrounded by verdant countryside strewn with pine trees, barley fields and heather-strewn hills. The farm’s residents include emus, wallabies, pygmy goats, pigs, sheep and rabbits, as well as Highland cows and Asian water buffalo.

Buffalo burgers, soups and sausage rolls are served at the farm’s food truck (open at weekends), while farm-reared meat, eggs, vegetables and honey are sold at the farm shop (open daily). You can also concoct your own milkshake, combining syrups with milk from the farm’s Jersey dairy cattle. If you fancy a farm stay, Thorabella has three rustic straw bale holiday cabins for rent.

See thorabellabuffalo.co.uk

COMPELLING CASTLES

When it comes to castles, Moray’s neighbouring county, Aberdeenshire, tends to hog tourists’ focus because it has a string of grand addresses, not least Balmoral — the royal family’s Highland escape.

But Moray isn’t short of captivating abodes, from Ballindalloch, one of the best-preserved Scottish baronial castles (it has a whisky distillery on the estate), to the windswept ruins of Duffus Castle near Elgin, Moray’s county town, where loom the haunting relics of a medieval cathedral.

Now managed by the National Trust for Scotland, Brodie Castle, between Inverness and Elgin, makes for a fine day out. Eclectic furniture, paintings and decor from various centuries shape this fairytale property, which was first built by Clan Brodie in AD1567 and much expanded in the Victorian age. It is surrounded by strollable parkland, gardens and play areas dotted with plants, trees and quirky installations, including a 6.5m-long rabbit that children love to clamber up and down.

See nts.org.uk

ROUSING ADVENTURES

With relatively little traffic and frequently bewitching scenery, the snaking country roads of Moray are a treat to drive (or cycle) along. But you’ll want to set aside time to embrace and breathe in the country air, which is sometimes scented with pine, and other times with farm aromas or barley being malted to make the Speyside whisky.

Hiking trails writhe through Moray’s fields, forests, moors and coastal villages, with numerous viewpoints showcasing sublime panoramas of mountains, lochs and sea. If you’re fond of paddling, you can book kayaking or canoeing trips on the Spey, the second-longest river in Scotland.

Some operators offer multi-night tours with overnight stays in cosy-chic hotels, daytime distillery visits and meals flaunting the region’s larder. You can paddle beneath the Craigellachie Bridge, Scotland’s oldest cast-iron bridge. Just downriver from Aberlour, it was built by the legendary Scottish engineer Thomas Telford between 1812 and 1814, although its fanciful mock-medieval towers evoke a more ancient time.

See spiritofthespey.co.uk