Roaming in Paris

I’ve landed in Paris the day after the city’s soccer team, PSG, was crowned champions of Europe for the very first time. Someone has marked the score 5-0, along with a four-letter curse towards the losing team, Inter Milan of Italy — on the bronze statue of Marianne, the personification of the French Republic, soaring in the middle of Place de la Republique.

Always thronged with revellers for big events and political rallies, the largest pedestrianised square in Paris is comparatively serene this afternoon as I emerge from the metro station below.

Looking around, past the statue, I see a gang of pigeons hunting for crumbs; a few skateboarders clattering about and younger children enjoying themselves in a pop-up play area shaded by plane trees.

Palestinian flags are fluttering close to banners and posters manned by another small group of protesters who are exposing injustices in France’s former north African colonies.

Behind the statue of Marianne, a middle-aged couple are dancing to salsa music booming from a set of speakers. At the other end of this 110m-long rectangular square, patrons sip drinks and people watch on the terrace of a kiosk cafe while Bollywood-style tunes ring out by the neighbouring market stalls dealing south Asian fashions and dishes.

The general atmosphere as I stroll across the square is vibrant, international, a bit noisy yet peaceful. And while few would claim this was the Parisian location of travellers’ dreams, not only does Place de la Republique have plenty to intrigue you within walking distance, plus excellent transport links across the city, it also has a fine hotel.

Considering the outside buzz, I’m pleasantly surprised by just how quiet it is inside the Crowne Plaza Paris Republique, which occupies a huge butter-hued stone complex of 19th century buildings, renovated in the 1980s, at the square’s south-eastern corner.

The hotel has 328 rooms, all with sober, contemporary decor; some overlooking the square; others, like mine, with windows opening out to Rue de Malte, a backstreet lined with typically Parisian apartment buildings.

My favourite part of this Crowne Plaza is the inner courtyard, an elegant 1200sqm space that’s dotted with plants, parasols, tables and chairs and is ideal for a chilled-out drink during the northern summer.

The hotel’s other inviting public areas include Le Dix, a square-side bar and restaurant where chef Philippe Daigneaux crafts modern French fare. I enjoy a welcome glass of wine and dinner here with my group — all travellers from Australia, some who have just flown in from Down Under, others that have been in Europe for a while.

We’re kicking off our Albatross La Grande France tour, which will take us through the centre of this ever-enchanting country, ending in Nice on the French Riviera, over a fortnight later. Tomorrow we’ll set off for the first portion of our itinerary: the Loire Valley, which is famed for its magnificent river and chateaux. But it’s still fairly early when we finish dinner — the cider-glazed pork fillet was my favourite dish — so I’m tempted to enjoy a little more of Paris.

Another perk of staying at this hotel is how many cool side streets and tucked-away districts there are close by, many with trendy bars, restaurants and stores that stay open late (and, with ample cafes and boulangeries, they’re also good for daytime strolls too).

The dilemma I have is which direction to walk in now. I could head north across the square to the lively enclave of Chateau d’Eau or turn around and head 100m east to the banks of Canal Saint-Martin, a waterway that rarely fails to charm on warm summer evenings like this, when you’ll invariably find Parisians and tourists in the know enjoying tipples and chats at waterfront establishments or hanging out on the walls by the canal.

The ambience is usually very agreeable and, I have to say, a bit more laid-back than the Place de la Republique.

+ Steve McKenna was a guest of Albatross Tours. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

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+ Rooms at the Crowne Plaza Paris Republique are priced from around €229 ($409). See ihg.com

+ A one-night stay at this hotel is included on Albatross’ 19-day 2026 La Grande France Tour, which has departures in May, June, August and September. It’s priced from $15,887 per person (twin) and $20,887 (solo). See albatrosstours.com.au

+ To help plan a trip to Paris and France, see parisjetaime.com and france.fr