I feel like a character from The White Lotus as I arrive at the SO/ Maldives island by boat, to be greeted by a row of waving staff in matching uniforms.

They usher me inside, to a cool towel and a welcome drink.

The hospitality is immediate, and combines with the view of crystalline waters over a white sand lagoon to form a first impression of the ultimate luxury destination.

Guest experience manager Wifag takes me by golf buggy on a tour of the island. And I am not alone. All guests of SO/ have a GEM to act as their liaison, for a fully customised stay. They book activities, order transport, organise daily itineraries and answer questions.

Wifag is a fountain of knowledge and points out the main landmarks, restaurants, swimming spots and amenities.

My suitcase is already waiting when I’m dropped at my room, so I have nothing to think about except freshening up and settling into island life.

And I quickly notice a reoccurring theme at SO/ Maldives . . . absolutely everything has been thought of. There are pastry chef-crafted macarons and a chocolate coral reef to welcome me.

There are luxurious Codage Paris toiletries.

You really only need to bring yourself.

The room

I’m staying in an over-water villa, looking out to the infinite shades of blue that graduate from the striped tiles of my private pool to the midnight depths of the Indian Ocean’s horizon.

The king-size bed is not just for show, providing pure comfort. The automatic black-out blinds add to the ease of slumber, as I don’t have to wake with the rising sun.

There is balance in both the colour and texture of the furnishings. Soft white drapery in the sheers and bed linens combined with plain walls and tiles are a canvas for the pops of wooden furniture and decorative bright-red tones.

The enormous circular bath in the centre of the room is anointed by a light fixture in the shape of a sun hat. Geometric patterns reminiscent of Mediterranean architecture scatter the space.

Nothing is overdone and everything is tasteful. The goal is to provide a space of stillness and rest.

The outdoor deck follows this theme, with a round sunbed in front of an over-water hammock.

At the foot of the stairs which descend into the pleasantly warm ocean below, stingrays glide past, occasionally stopping to nibble at the algae growing on the lower steps and support piles of the villa.

I mentioned detail . . . after two days of drinking only the provided still water, sparkling water stopped being offered and my still water supply doubled.

The tea and coffee choices of each guest are considered, with additional favourites added to the mini bar.

And, seeing that I had moved shampoo and soap to the edge of the bath, more amenities appeared in the shower so I didn’t have to cart them back and forth.

Each guest is provided a bicycle for getting around.

The restaurants

SO/ Maldives has three restaurants.

Premium restaurant Hadaba is only open for dinner, producing incredible Levantine cuisine, inspired by tastes of Egypt.

Each meal begins with a Medjool date and hot Moroccan mint tea; a tradition rooted in Islamic teachings of breaking fast that also kickstarts the digestive system.

Meals at Hadaba are designed for sharing. There are hummus platters paired with pickled vegetables, grilled meats dipped in tahini sauce, slow-cooked tajine served in earthenware and topped off with fresh pita coated in za’atar.

My must-try meal includes a starter of the warak enab — tangy grape leaves stuffed with a spiced rice and mince mixture.

I follow this with a main course of succulent chicken shish tawook, rounded out with a palate cleansing coconut labneh ice-cream.

The island’s all-day dining destination, The Citronelle Club, serves Asian-fusion cuisine drawn from many cultures. It includes spicy papaya salads, lobster and scallop shumai and Singaporean laksa, as well as a separate Indian menu.

Citronelle highlights seafood exceptionally well, with Maldivian lobster and tuna forming the centrepieces of the lunch and dinner menus.

But its morning meals can’t be overlooked. The shakshuka (eggs cooked in a fragrant tomato sauce) changed my outlook on breakfast forever.

Lazuli Beach Club, at the resort pool, is decked out in colour and sound that might make you second-guess whether you’ve accidentally booked a trip to Ibiza. While family-friendly lunch and dinner is served here, Lazuli comes alive once the kids are in bed. An effervescent DJ won’t share your language but will share her beats. Shisha fragrances the air and drinks flow for as long as you want.

About Abdul

Abdul is not only the island’s resident personal trainer, water aerobics instructor and acrobat — once a week he performs fire breathing, stilt walking or acrobatics. His performance is at the complimentary cocktail hour (for all adult guests). The beetroot spritz, inspired by fresh ingredients, goes down too easily.

Guests can design their own workouts for SO/ Maldives’ gym and yoga deck, or join a rotating weekly schedule of fitness classes led by professionals.

For couples

There’s no need to leave the over-water hammock.

For peace and privacy, there’s an in-room menu — and floating breakfasts are not just a novelty. They are tailored to guests’ tastes and created with the same care as eating at The Citronelle Club.

Eating breakfast in the sun-warmed private pool while the boats rocket past on the horizon and the stingrays drift closer to shore is certainly a luxury.

Evenings are for sunsets and cocktails at SO/ Maldives. The Pavilion Bar at the arrival pavilion has a nightly happy hour with open-air views of the sun setting.

For families

The Nest Kids’ Club is open all day for children of all ages. A playground with a water play area, creative workshops and cooking classes keep the kids entertained.

Interestingly, there’s a gaming room, but staff say it is rarely used as The Nest aims to ignite imaginations.

There are also after-hours child-minding services.

The weekly foam party at the main pool is a highlight, as soap suds turn the pool into an enormous bubble bath, with super-soakers, bath toys and live dancing to the tunes of Baby Shark.

Beach pool villas are family-friendly, on a ground level and set back from the resort’s inner lagoon.

Day trips

The SO/ Maldives island is well placed to get out and about.

Guest experience managers can arrange day trips to go game fishing, diving, reef snorkelling or dolphin watching.

The dolphin-watching experience is serene. Operators ensure that dolphins are never chased; instead, they tend to sneak up on the boat to surprise an audience of adoring fans with flips and twirls.

From SO/ Maldives island, there are cultural visits to local residential islands and capital city Male.

There is also a daily speedboat to Crossroads, with its shopping boutiques, local artists and the SAii Lagoon Beach Club. Entry is complimentary for guests of SO/, and I spend a day admiring the super yachts of the Crossroads marina, sampling the poolside gelato bar and shopping at local artisans. The Clay Studio at Crossroads was my favourite find, as I was able to collect mementos that supported local talent.

Just relax

While there’s a lot to do at SO/ Maldives, I couldn’t name a better place to do a whole lot of nothing and feel absolutely no guilt about it.

+ The spa centre is a welcome retreat, with massages, beauty treatments and sauna sessions.

+ The central lagoon is the perfect place to lounge. Knee depth and always warm, it is constantly calm as waves are broken by the ocean-front villas before entering the lagoon.

+ Art activities, from painting to pottery can, be organised by GEMs.

+ On-call buggy drivers will transport guests around the resort.

Ella George was a guest of SO/ Maldives. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

fact file

+ For bookings until September 30, SO/ Maldives has a “One Night On Us” package, with a 33 per cent discount for stays of over three nights.

The package also includes free round-trip airport transfer, daily breakfasts, arrival amenities and 20 per cent off spa treatments for bookings directly through the Accor or SO/ websites. so-hotels.com/en/offers/maldives/one-night-on-us

+ If you spot a cheaper offer on a stay with SO/ on an external booking platform, they will price-match it through their direct reservation email at SO.Maldives.Reservations@so-hotels.com.

+ Opened in November 2023, SO/ Maldives is a recent extension of the global SO/ hotel and resort collection.

+ The island is 20 minutes from the Maldives’ Velana International Airport by speedboat. The new terminal at Velana International Airport has a fully covered passageway that connects to the original airport infrastructure where the resort speedboats dock.