Ten years of work yield Rottnest gem

Over 10 years, Cale McMillen has cycled more than 30,000km round Rottnest Island, taking photographs.

The result is his new hardback book, Rottnest Island: The Cultural Landscape.

A long-term Rottnest resident, Cale is a sixth-generation descendant of Francis Armstrong, who arrived in the Swan River Colony as a teenager in 1829, befriended and recorded the language of the Noongar people and lived on Rottnest Island, too.

Self-taught photographer Cale’s work shows the same personal, intense connection to place. It results from the same long commitment to landscape, culture and sensitivity.

In looking through Cale’s 168-page coffee-table book, appreciating his images, reading his words and thinking about his approach, I can’t help but think about Francis Armstrong (and have included a brief account of his life alongside this).

In the introduction to the book, Cale quotes 17th-century Dutch maritime explorer Willem de Vlamingh: “Nature has spared nothing to render the island delightful beyond all others that I have seen — a paradise on Earth.”

And Cale comments on this: “Therein lies the main theme of this book: a visual documentation focused deeply on place — a decade-long photographic study devoted to the detail of a land where pristine natural beauty and a unique, yet at times troubled, history have come together to shape a rich cultural landscape.”

The book, bravely self-published by Cale, begins with a written wander round the island, pointing out good spots.

But then it launches into his photographs, from the air, round the settlement, past the jetties and to the bays.

There’s the hotel jetty on a choppy day; the Thomson Bay jetty in a rare sea fog; Natural Jetty on a hot day at low tide.

And throughout the book, there are informative captions: “Located at Wadjemup’s easternmost point, it highlights the island’s previous connection to the mainland. Prior to sea levels rising around 6500 years ago, Whadjuk people crossed the coastal plain on foot, with chert artifacts found on the island dating Aboriginal occupation back almost 5000 years.”

And Cale covers more contemporary culture, too, tracing Rottnest’s surfing history back to the 1950s, “when adventurous Perth surfers first paddled their longboards across from the mainland.

“However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that the renowned peak at Strickland Bay was regularly ridden. Once used as a site for top-tier competitive surfing, early local Offshore Boardriders Club projects including building the shelter, dune restoration work, and forming clear beach access.”

+ Rottnest Island: The Cultural Landscape is $39.95 and available at rottnestdreaming.com and some online book sellers.

+ It is also available at these book shops: Fremantle, Chart and Map Shop, New Edition Bookshop, and Three Stories; Mosman Park, Open Book; Cottesloe, Planet Books; Claremont, The Lane Bookshop; Subiaco, Subiaco Bookshop; Kings Park, Aspects of Kings Park; Leederville, Boundless Books; Perth CBD, Boffins Books.

FRANCIS ARMSTRONG

Francis Armstrong published essays outlining his understanding of Noongar culture. He also published lists of translated words.

And he regularly acted as an intermediary between Aboriginal leaders and governors of the Swan River Colony.

Between 1847 and 1849, he was sent to Rottnest Island with the title “Moral Agent”, to run the government commissary and lighthouse and teach Christian doctrine to Aboriginal prisoners.

Having acquired a considerable knowledge of the Noongar language, and the trust of local indigenous people, Armstrong continued his work as official interpreter until his retirement in 1882. As interpreter, he presented at nearly every significant court or government process involving Aboriginal people.

In 1834, he was made superintendent of a Christian mission for Noongar people at the base of Mt Eliza (Kaarta Gar-up) in Kings Park. In this role he had daily contact with Noongar language and culture and developed a real understanding of poverty and hardships faced by Indigenous people.

In 1836 he married Mary Mews and they had 17 children.

As my final tribute to Armstrong, I include this, written in The Perth Gazette in September 1833: “The natives of Yellowgonga’s tribe, to which Yagan’s has recently been united, have for some time expressed to Mr F. Armstrong a wish to appear before the lieutenant governor; in order to gratify them Migo and Munday, had an audience on Wednesday last, which led to the disclosure of some of the most interesting facts, connected with their habits, which have hitherto been elicited. Mr F. Armstrong, who appears to have acquired a very considerable knowledge of the native language, acted as their interpreter, and the conversation was carried on with a degree of fluency we could scarcely have anticipated.”